The heat of Piraeus, of Marina Zea was intense. The marina is shaped like a horse shoe and is lined with buildings of concrete and stone which passively accept the harsh rays of the sun all day drawing the heat deep inside them; then at sunset let out a long slow angry lions’ breath which holds the warmth all night long.
With modern communication we were able to Zoom in and attend the regular weekly ‘Meet and Greek’ Kafenion run by my very generous and lovely teacher Haridina. We chatted from Lima, Piraeus and Edinburgh. This was our last meeting for a while but it has been fun. Here is a screen shot………
It was a joy to leave our winter berth and after a few little anchorages arrived in the familiar port of Poros.
I feel truly back in Greece when I hear the church bells and see priests rushing by on motor bikes. There are so many memories here. Of children and grandchildren; Thomas being taken for a ride in the mini fuel bowser, ice creams, sit down strikes, feeding fish, prickly sea monsters and swims and our new anchor chain bought from the 3 brothers’ chandlery. We always visit. There is always something we need. There is always something we don’t need. On this visit it was a torch, a special torch, a new development, chargeable by usb – oh we did need it – sorry! We buy pelican hooks, ropes suitable for splicing and I listen to one of the brothers on the phone and pick up words here and there and then ask him about one I heard repeatedly. He tells us that when he retires in three years time he’s going to learn Greek! Hilarious and wonderful – so many words – Ancient Greek – what a great project.
I have been listening to the music of Mikis Theodorakis who died last week ages 96. What an interesting and productive life and the music so much more varied than the familiar Zorba theme. I didn’t know he had written operas. Having lain in state in Athens, he is now at rest in Crete, joining his father and grandfather.
Selkie Dancer might feature in a film!
One morning we visited the little theatre where, since we first visited some 10 years ago, extensive excavations have been in progress. We always like to go and check. We returned to the village by a different path and found ourselves amongst white vans, trailers and buses; some closed some open and bristling with equipment inside. We asked and were told they were filming an action movie. Later in the day as we were walking an extraordinary little path through the pine trees, past the beach, across lava stones and red earth we watch a RIB full of black clad figures race out to sea and a black helicopter with a camera on its nose dive and rear around it. We asked the name of the film – Zakari – sugar??? No my quicker husband picked it up – Zack Ryan – oooh look round quickly to see if Tom Cruise is lurking – no, I don’t even know who is in this film. We retire for a tonsil garrotting, cheese heavy, Margherita pizza and home for an early night.
Leaving Epidavros early, a still figure, contemplative, solitary, fishing off the spit of land at the entrance, fishing boats returning to port, the sharp lemon lime smell of an early still morning, the sun just rising, rising fast and a last photo missed as we turn into wind to raise the mainsail and when I come back on track the moment has gone and Epidavros seems now an ordinary little place, the momentary wash of sunlight – gone.
Now the long journey.